How to sew a women’s djellaba: beginner’s tutorial

Sewing your own women's djellaba is an accessible and rewarding project. Even as a beginner at sewing, you can make a simple and elegant djellaba by following the right steps. In this complete tutorial, we will guide you step by step to create a traditional djellaba that respects the conventions of authentic Moroccan clothing.

Materials needed to sew a djellaba

Before you begin, gather all your materials. Here is the complete list of what you will need:

• Fabric: 3 to 4 meters of cotton, linen, or wool depending on the season (minimum width: 150 cm)
• Matching sewing thread for your fabric
• Sewing machine or needles for hand sewing
• Sharp fabric scissors
• Tape measure
• Pins
• Dressmaker's chalk
• Iron
• Braid or sfifa for finishing (optional but traditional)

Taking your measurements correctly

A well-fitted djellaba starts with accurate measurements. Ask someone to help you for greater accuracy:

1. Bust circumference: measure the fullest part of your bust
2. Shoulder width: from one shoulder to the other, across the upper back
3. Total length: from the shoulder to the ankle
4. Sleeve length: from the shoulder to the wrist
5. Arm circumference: the widest part of the arm

Write down all these measurements and add 10 cm of seam allowance to each dimension.

Step 1: Marking the pattern on the fabric

Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Mark with your chalk:

• A rectangle corresponding to the total length and half the bust circumference + 10 cm of allowance
• The neckline in the center of the top: a semicircle with a radius of 12–15 cm
• The sleeves on the sides: rectangular shape with the sleeve length

Step 2: Cutting out the pieces

Carefully cut along your markings. You will have:

• 1 large piece for the djellaba body (front and back in one piece)
• 2 pieces for the sleeves
• 1 strip for the neckline

Step 3: Assembling the shoulders and sides

Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Sew:

1. The shoulder seams: approximately 15 cm on each side of the neckline
2. The side seams: from the underside of the armpit to the bottom of the dress
3. Leave a 30 cm opening at the bottom of each side to make walking easier

Press the seams flat for a better drape.

Step 4: Sewing the sleeves

For the sleeves:

1. Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise, right sides together
2. Sew along the side to form a tube
3. Turn them inside out and insert the sleeves into the armholes of the body
4. Pin, then sew the pieces together edge to edge

Step 5: Finish the neckline

The neckline is an important detail. You have two options:

• Simple neckline: fold the edge inward by 1 cm, then 2 cm, and sew
• Neckline with bias binding: sew a strip of bias binding around the collar for a neat finish

Step 6: Hems and finishing touches

For impeccable finishes:

• Hem the bottom of the djellaba: fold over 1 cm, then 3 cm, and sew
• Hem the cuffs: fold over 1 cm, then 2 cm, and sew
• If you wish, add sfifa (braid trim) along the neckline, cuffs, and front opening for a traditional touch

Step 7: Add the traditional details (optional)

To make your djellaba more authentic:

• Sew a traditional pointed hood at the back neckline
• Add aakad buttons to the front opening
• Embroider a few geometric patterns on the chest or sleeves

Tips for successfully making your djellaba

A few tips that make all the difference:

• Wash and iron your fabric before starting to account for shrinkage
• Do a fitting after step 3 to make adjustments if necessary
• Choose a fluid, breathable fabric for comfort
• Opt for French seams for invisible, durable finishes

How long does it take to sew a djellaba?

For a beginner, allow:

• 2–3 hours for taking measurements and marking
• 4–6 hours for complete sewing
• 1–2 hours for finishing touches

That makes a total of 7 to 11 hours of work spread over several sessions.

FAQ: Sewing a women's djellaba

Can you sew a djellaba without a pattern?

Yes, it is even the traditional method. Moroccan craftswomen draw directly on the fabric, following the measurements. This tutorial explains the method step by step.

Which fabric should you choose for a djellaba?

For summer: cotton, linen, or lightweight viscose. For winter: wool or a wool-cotton blend. For a formal djellaba: satin, brocade, or embroidered crepe.

How many meters of fabric do you need for a djellaba?

Allow 3 to 4 meters of fabric that is 150 cm wide. For a djellaba with a hood, plan for 4.5 meters.

Can you sew a djellaba by hand?

Yes, but the work will be very long (20–30 hours). A sewing machine is highly recommended for beginners.

To take it further

Also discover our other guides to learn more:

• Qamis vs. djellaba: which one should you choose?
• Qamis: complete definition and history of this garment
• Qamis and prayer rug gift set: the perfect gift box
• How to dress for Eid for men: the complete guide