Igal: the black cord on the keffiyeh—history and proper wearing

The igal — this double black cord worn over the keffiyeh — is the little-known complement to Gulf headwear. Origins, symbolism, and how to wear it correctly: here is everything you need to know about this understated accessory.

What is the igal?

The igal (also spelled agal, iqal, or egal) is a double ring made of thick cord, traditionally braided from goat hair or black wool, worn over the ghutra or shemagh to keep it in place on the head. Without it, the square of fabric slips; with it, the head covering stays in place all day — the elegant mechanical solution to a millennia-old practical problem.

The Bedouin origin

The commonly reported history traces the igal back to nomadic life: at night, the cord was used to hobble a camel’s legs (iqal means “hobble”), while during the day the Bedouin wore it on his head — a utilitarian accessory that became part of traditional dress. From the camp to the palace, the igal followed the rise of Gulf societies until it became a marker of national elegance.

How to wear it correctly

• Position: laid flat on the crown of the head, tilted slightly toward the back — it encircles the head without squeezing it
• Which head covering: a white ghutra or red-and-white shemagh folded into a triangle, with the points falling down the back or folded back according to the style
• The back cord (tarboucha): some igals have two thin cords hanging down the back — a classic Saudi style detail
• Fit: igals come in different sizes — one that is too large will slip, while one that is too small will feel tight; try it on or measure your head circumference with the head covering in place

Regional styles

• Saudi Arabia: the standard black igal worn over a white ghutra or shemagh — the de facto national uniform
• United Arab Emirates: a black igal, often with the hanging tarboucha — or a ghutra tied without an igal (the hamdaniyya style) among younger people
• Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait: variations in shape (the Qatari igal is taller and more angular)
• Oman: NO igal — the wrapped massar does without one, making it a distinctive marker of the sultanate

The igal in France: who wears it, and when?

Wearing the ghutra-igal ensemble in France is an intentional expression of identity — seen mainly on special occasions (Khaleeji-style weddings, Eid) and among enthusiasts of the full Gulf style. In everyday life, many prefer to wear the keffiyeh loosely without an igal, or wear a taqiyah. There is no religious rule here: the igal is cultural — the only requirement is to wear it correctly if you choose to wear it.

Choosing your igal

The criteria for a good igal are its weight (a quality igal has a density that ensures a secure fit — lightweight hollow models slip), the regularity of its braiding, and the flexibility of its ring, which should conform without leaving marks. Expect to pay mid-range prices at specialist shops for a durable model — the igal hardly wears out.

Conclusion

From a camel hobble to the heads of the Gulf’s well-dressed men, the igal tells the story of Bedouin memory transformed into a dress code. Two circles of black cord — and an entire heritage resting on the keffiyeh of the person who knows how to wear it.