Wool in Islamic clothing: history and modern use

Wool holds a special place in the history of Islamic clothing—from the suf (wool garments) that may have given Sufism its name to contemporary winter djellabas. Here is the history and modern use of this noble fiber.

Wool in the prophylactic tradition

Several accounts attest that the Prophet ﷺ wore wool. Aisha (radhiyallahu 'anha) reported that he wore a woolen garment (Sahih Muslim mentions a kisa' made of dark hair). Wool was the everyday fiber of Arabia's pastoral societies—accessible, warm, and durable.

Wool also carries a symbolism of simplicity: several ascetics and scholars of the early generations wore coarse wool as a sign of detachment from luxury, to the point that the most common etymology of the word “Sufism” (tasawwuf) links it to suf, meaning wool.

Is wool permitted without restriction?

Yes, entirely. Unlike silk, there are no restrictions on wool for men. As an animal fiber obtained without slaughter, it is pure and permissible, including wool from animals that are not eaten (shearing does not raise the same issues as skin and leather).

Wool in contemporary Islamic clothing

The winter djellaba

Its most vibrant use is the Moroccan woven-wool djellaba (khay dira, bziou), which remains the Maghrebi answer to the cold—warm and windproof, with its protective hood. It is still an active craft in Morocco's weaving regions.

The burnous

A woolen hooded cape from the Maghreb, white or brown—both a ceremonial and cold-weather garment, worn over an outfit on important winter occasions.

Winter woolen qamis and thoubs

The Gulf has its winter thoubs made from wool blends (the beige, gray, or dark “winter” models)—the same structure as the summer thoub, with fabric suited to cool desert nights and temperate climates.

Choosing wool today: the criteria

• Merino wool: fine and soft, without the “scratchiness” of rustic wool—ideal as a base layer or for high-quality winter qamis fabric
• Wool-cotton or wool-polyester blends: the common compromise for contemporary djellabas—wool's warmth with easier care
• Genuine handwoven wool: the artisanal high end of Moroccan djellabas and burnouses—a lasting investment and a piece of heritage to wear

Caring for wool

• Wash cold or at 20°C on a wool cycle, or by hand—wool felts and shrinks with heat and agitation
• Never use a tumble dryer
• Dry flat on a towel to prevent deformation
• Air regularly instead of washing frequently: wool is remarkably self-cleaning
• Protect against moths during storage—wool is their favorite food

Conclusion

As the fiber of the Prophet ﷺ and the ascetics, and the material of winter djellabas and burnouses, wool connects contemporary Islamic clothing to fourteen centuries of history. A genuine wool djellaba or a woolen winter qamis, carefully maintained, carries this continuity—bringing together the warmth of the body and the warmth of tradition.